Mind The Gap: Tube 160

Naming the Overground: The Weaver line

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Episode notes

Tim Dunn enters a world he admits he knows absolutely zero about: the world of weaving. Plus - did you know that the fabric on TfL seats, moquette, is also woven?

Travelling on what will become the London Overground Weaver line to Bethnal Green station, Tim meets fine artist and maker Anna Ray, who has a special family connection to weaving and the incredible and dramatic history of textile production in east London that dates back to at least the 1700s.

Tim then discovers that the moquette seats he sits on every day on Overground trains, tubes, trams and buses are also all woven. After another quick train ride, Tim meets Honor Clough from Camira fabrics, who explains how they weave this amazing and historic material. Then Tim sits down for a chat with TfL designer Claire Dilnot-Smith, who has a very enviable job: she designs the patterns for the moquette seats.

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Weaving and textiles in East London have deep roots dating back to the 16th century, when Protestant Huguenots fled religious persecution in France and settled in Spitalfields. Skilled silk weavers, they helped to transform the area into a major centre for the silk industry. By the late 17th and 18th centuries, the weaving trade flourished, with workshops and homes intertwined in this East London district.

Spitalfields silk became renowned for its high quality, worn by the English aristocracy, and complex and beautiful patterns and designs would be woven into the cloth on the loom by the silk weavers.

However, competition from imported textiles and changing fashions led to the decline of the silk industry by the late 18th century. The rise of mechanized cotton mills in northern England further undercut traditional hand-weaving practices in East London.

In the 19th century, new waves of immigrants, including Irish and Jewish communities, revitalized the textile industry, focusing on tailoring and garment production. East London’s Whitechapel and Bethnal Green districts became hubs for garment manufacturing, catering to London’s growing fashion markets.

However, by the mid-20th century, global shifts in production led to the decline of East London’s textile and garment industries. Despite this, the area’s rich history of weaving and textile production left an enduring legacy, influencing London’s fashion and creative industries to this day.

In recent decades, the district has seen a revival of craft and design, with local artisans and designers drawing inspiration from its weaving heritage. Today, East London is known for its vibrant fashion and creative scene, a modern echo of its historical textile roots.